Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
